Tuning -
Chassis Setup and Wheel Alignment
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Pointed
the Right Way
story by john hagerman
Camber,
Caster and Toe: What Do They Mean?
The
three
major alignment parameters on a car are toe, camber, and caster. Most
enthusiasts have a good understanding of what these settings are and
what they
involve, but many may not know why a particular setting is called for,
or how
it affects performance. Let's take a quick look at this basic aspect of
suspension tuning.
UNDERSTANDING
TOE
When
a
pair of wheels is set so that their leading edges are pointed slightly
towards
each other, the wheel pair is said to have toe-in. If the leading edges
point away
from each other, the pair is said to have toe-out. The amount of toe
can be
expressed in degrees as the angle to which the wheels are out of
parallel, or
more commonly, as the difference between the track widths as measured
at the
leading and trailing edges of the tires or wheels. Toe settings affect
three
major areas of performance: tire wear, straight-line stability and
corner entry
handling characteristics.
For
minimum tire wear and power loss, the wheels on a given axle of a car
should
point directly ahead when the car is running in a straight line.
Excessive
toe-in or toe-out causes the tires to scrub, since they are always
turned
relative to the direction of travel. Too much toe-in causes accelerated
wear at
the outboard edges of the tires, while too much toe-out causes wear at
the
inboard edges.
So
if
minimum tire wear and power loss are achieved with zero toe, why have
any toe
angles at all? The answer is that toe settings have a major impact on
directional stability. The illustrations at right show the mechanisms
involved.
With the steering wheel centered, toe-in causes the wheels to tend to
roll
along paths that intersect each other. Under this condition, the wheels
are at
odds with each other, and no turn results.
When
the
wheel on one side of the car encounters a disturbance, that wheel is
pulled
rearward about its steering axis. This action also pulls the other
wheel in the
same steering direction. If it's a minor disturbance, the disturbed
wheel will
steer only a small amount, perhaps so that it's rolling straight ahead
instead
of toed-in slightly. But note that with this slight steering input, the
rolling
paths of the wheels still don't describe a turn. The wheels have
absorbed the
irregularity without significantly changing the direction of the
vehicle. In
this way, toe-in enhances straight-line stability.
If
the car
is set up with toe-out, however, the front wheels are aligned so that
slight
disturbances cause the wheel pair to assume rolling directions that do
describe
a turn. Any minute steering angle beyond the perfectly centered
position will
cause the inner wheel to steer in a tighter turn radius than the outer
wheel.
Thus, the car will always be trying to enter a turn, rather than
maintaining a
straight line of travel. So it's clear that toe-out encourages the
initiation
of a turn, while toe-in discourages it.
The
toe
setting on a particular car becomes a tradeoff between the
straight-line
stability afforded by toe-in and the quick steering response promoted
by
toe-out. Nobody wants their street car to constantly wander over tar
strips-the
never-ending steering corrections required would drive anyone batty.
But racers
are willing to sacrifice a bit of stability on the straightaway for a
sharper
turn-in to the corners. So street cars are generally set up with
toe-in, while
race cars are often set up with toe-out.
With
four-wheel independent suspension, the toe must also be set at the rear
of the
car. Toe settings at the rear have essentially the same effect on wear,
directional stability and turn-in as they do on the front. However, it
is rare
to set up a rear-drive race car toed out in the rear, since doing so
causes
excessive oversteer, particularly when power is applied.
Front-wheel-drive race
cars, on the other hand, are often set up with a bit of toe-out, as
this
induces a bit of oversteer to counteract the greater tendency of
front-wheel-drive cars to understeer.
Remember
also that toe will change slightly from a static situation to a dynamic
one.
This is is most noticeable on a front-wheel-drive car or
independently-suspended rear-drive car. When driving torque is applied
to the
wheels, they pull themselves forward and try to create toe-in. This is
another
reason why many front-drivers are set up with toe-out in the front.
Likewise,
when pushed down the road, a non-driven wheel will tend to toe itself
out. This
is most noticeable in rear-drive cars.
The
amount
of toe-in or toe-out dialed into a given car is dependent on the
compliance of
the suspension and the desired handling characteristics. To improve
ride
quality, street cars are equipped with relatively soft rubber bushings
at their
suspension links, and thus the links move a fair amount when they are
loaded. Race
cars, in contrast, are fitted with steel spherical bearings or very
hard
urethane, metal or plastic bushings to provide optimum rigidity and
control of
suspension links. Thus, a street car requires a greater static toe-in
than does
a race car, so as to avoid the condition wherein bushing compliance
allows the
wheels to assume a toe-out condition.
It
should
be noted that in recent years, designers have been using bushing
compliance in
street cars to their advantage. To maximize transient response, it is
desirable
to use a little toe-in at the rear to hasten the generation of slip
angles and
thus cornering forces in the rear tires. By allowing a bit of
compliance in the
front lateral links of an A-arm type suspension, the rear axle will
toe-in when
the car enters a hard corner; on a straightaway where no cornering
loads are
present, the bushings remain undistorted and allow the toe to be set to
an
angle that enhances tire wear and stability characteristics. Such a
design is a
type of passive four-wheel steering system.
THE
EFFECTS OF CASTER
Caster
is
the angle to which the steering pivot axis is tilted forward or
rearward from
vertical, as viewed from the side. If the pivot axis is tilted backward
(that
is, the top pivot is positioned farther rearward than the bottom
pivot), then
the caster is positive; if it's tilted forward, then the caster is
negative.
Positive
caster tends to straighten the wheel when the vehicle is traveling
forward, and
thus is used to enhance straight-line stability. The mechanism that
causes this
tendency is clearly illustrated by the castering front wheels of a
shopping
cart (above). The steering axis of a shopping cart wheel is set forward
of
where the wheel contacts the ground. As the cart is pushed forward, the
steering axis pulls the wheel along, and since the wheel drags along
the
ground, it falls directly in line behind the steering axis. The force
that
causes the wheel to follow the steering axis is proportional to the
distance
between the steering axis and the wheel-to-ground contact patch-the
greater the
distance, the greater the force. This distance is referred to as
"trail."
Due
to
many design considerations, it is desirable to have the steering axis
of a
car's wheel right at the wheel hub. If the steering axis were to be set
vertical with this layout, the axis would be coincident with the tire
contact
patch. The trail would be zero, and no castering would be generated.
The wheel
would be essentially free to spin about the patch (actually, the tire
itself
generates a bit of a castering effect due to a phenomenon known as
"pneumatic trail," but this effect is much smaller than that created
by mechanical castering, so we'll ignore it here). Fortunately, it is
possible
to create castering by tilting the steering axis in the positive
direction.
With such an arrangement, the steering axis intersects the ground at a
point in
front of the tire contact patch, and thus the same effect as seen in
the
shopping cart casters is achieved.
The
tilted
steering axis has another important effect on suspension geometry.
Since the
wheel rotates about a tilted axis, the wheel gains camber as it is
turned. This
effect is best visualized by imagining the unrealistically extreme case
where
the steering axis would be horizontal-as the steering wheel is turned,
the road
wheel would simply change camber rather than direction. This effect
causes the
outside wheel in a turn to gain negative camber, while the inside wheel
gains positive
camber. These camber changes are generally favorable for cornering,
although it
is possible to overdo it.
Most
cars
are not particularly sensitive to caster settings. Nevertheless, it is
important to ensure that the caster is the same on both sides of the
car to
avoid the tendency to pull to one side. While greater caster angles
serve to
improve straight-line stability, they also cause an increase in
steering
effort. Three to five degrees of positive caster is the typical range
of
settings, with lower angles being used on heavier vehicles to keep the
steering
effort reasonable.
WHAT
IS
CAMBER?
Camber
is
the angle of the wheel relative to vertical, as viewed from the front
or the
rear of the car. If the wheel leans in towards the chassis, it has
negative
camber; if it leans away from the car, it has positive camber (see next
page).
The cornering force that a tire can develop is highly dependent on its
angle
relative to the road surface, and so wheel camber has a major effect on
the
road holding of a car. It's interesting to note that a tire develops
its
maximum cornering force at a small negative camber angle, typically
around neg.
1/2 degree. This fact is due to the contribution of camber thrust,
which is an
additional lateral force generated by elastic deformation as the tread
rubber
pulls through the tire/road interface (the contact patch).
To
optimize a tire's performance in a corner, it's the job of the
suspension
designer to assume that the tire is always operating at a slightly
negative
camber angle. This can be a very difficult task, since, as the chassis
rolls in
a corner, the suspension must deflect vertically some distance. Since
the wheel
is connected to the chassis by several links which must rotate to allow
for the
wheel deflection, the wheel can be subject to large camber changes as
the
suspension moves up and down. For this reason, the more the wheel must
deflect
from its static position, the more difficult it is to maintain an ideal
camber
angle. Thus, the relatively large wheel travel and soft roll stiffness
needed
to provide a smooth ride in passenger cars presents a difficult design
challenge, while the small wheel travel and high roll stiffness
inherent in
racing cars reduces the engineer's headaches.
It's
important to draw the distinction between camber relative to the road,
and
camber relative to the chassis. To maintain the ideal camber relative
to the
road, the suspension must be designed so that wheel camber relative to
the
chassis becomes increasingly negative as the suspension deflects
upward. The
illustration on the bottom of page 46 shows why this is so. If the
suspension
were designed so as to maintain no camber change relative to the
chassis, then
body roll would induce positive camber of the wheel relative to the
road. Thus,
to negate the effect of body roll, the suspension must be designed so
that it
pulls in the top of the wheel (i.e., gains negative camber) as it is
deflected
upwards.
While
maintaining the ideal camber angle throughout the suspension travel
assures
that the tire is operating at peak efficiency, designers often
configure the
front suspensions of passenger cars so that the wheels gain positive
camber as
they are deflected upward. The purpose of such a design is to reduce
the
cornering power of the front end relative to the rear end, so that the
car will
understeer in steadily greater amounts up to the limit of adhesion.
Understeer
is inherently a much safer and more stable condition than oversteer,
and thus
is preferable for cars intended for the public.
Since
most
independent suspensions are designed so that the camber varies as the
wheel
moves up and down relative to the chassis, the camber angle that we set
when we
align the car is not typically what is seen when the car is in a
corner.
Nevertheless, it's really the only reference we have to make camber
adjustments. For competition, it's necessary to set the camber under
the static
condition, test the car, then alter the static setting in the direction
that is
indicated by the test results.
The
best
way to determine the proper camber for competition is to measure the
temperature profile across the tire tread immediately after completing
some hot
laps. In general, it's desirable to have the inboard edge of the tire
slightly
hotter than the outboard edge. However, it's far more important to
ensure that
the tire is up to its proper operating temperature than it is to have
an
"ideal" temperature profile. Thus, it may be advantageous to run
extra negative camber to work the tires up to temperature.
TESTING
IS IMPORTANT
Car
manufacturers will always have recommended toe, caster, and camber
settings.
They arrived at these numbers through exhaustive testing. Yet the goals
of the
manufacturer were probably different from yours, the competitor. And
what works
best at one race track may be off the mark at another. So the "proper"
alignment settings are best determined by you-it all boils down to
testing and
experimentation.
John
Hagerman is a mechanical engineer who works for the U.S. Army as a
vehicle test
engineer at the Aberdeen Proving Grounds in Maryland. John started
autocrossing
at the age of 16 in a Triumph Spitfire and switched to road racing a
few years
later. Lately, he has been playing with a Sports 2000. For the Advanced Racing Technologies Index, please Click Here
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